travelogue Archives - Bambu Sapiens

On the Top of Mizoram: A Royal Ascend

‎Aizawl to Sangau

It was Dec. 5th, 2012 05:30 a.m., I was awakened by the most irritating tone of all…an alarm! Waking up at such an hour in a winter morning was not in my routine, if not for a very special occasion. The previous night, I packed my backpacks, keeping everything ready for an early morning Royal ride. As usual, camera, tripod, gps, ors, chocolate, country made knife, torch, a puan-nuam embedded in a sleeping bag etc. were in my bag. Since it was winter, no insect repellent cream was required. Tent was with B-a.

Firing my ride, I head on to our RV at Ngaizel. My friend B-a, with whom I’ll be traveling was from the West end of the city while I’m from the East end, and we’re heading south. B-a soon arrived. Filling up our fuel, we move ahead towards our destination. The plan was to reach Sangau as early as possible; which is around 230 Km from Aizawl. We took the World Bank road, and at Chalkhan we take a left turn towards Serchhip. At Sailiamkawn, my partner was stopped by the Assam Rifle Jawans. He was also equipped with knife, camera, gps and other gadgets, may be those looks suspicious. After a while he joined me again. I don’t know why was I not stopped! After having our meal at Keitum, we continued. It was almost 02:00 p.m. when we reached the Tuipui D, where we had to wait for our Royal Enfield to be ferried accross the Chhimtuipui by a mar-boat.

At the Tuipui D pier, waiting for the mar-boat

The mar-boat service there had a special guidelines that made us to wait until two LMV arrived.

The mar-boat service here at Tuipui D is the life-line of the South-Eastern Mizoram. The service is operated by the BRTF, 7:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. daily except on Sunday. A pedestrian suspension bridge across the river was the only other option available, then.

During monsoon, when mar-boat service is not available, passengers transit, walking across the suspension bridge, catching another vehicle on the other side.

After waiting for a while, finally the mar-boat landed. We loaded our bobber, waiting for others to turn up. In less than 2 minutes, we were ferried across.

Finally we hop on, another vehicles joined us

The areas around the Tuipui D pier had been protected by the Villagers; as we transverse the river, a school of fish swum around the boat. It was so fascinating that I forgot to click a picture of them fishes!

From Tuipui D, The road to Sangau was mostly on the eastern slope of the hillocks, which make it kinda chilly. The moment when we were on the sunnier side, we have to stopped by, exposed and warm up ourselves. After reaching South Vanlaiphai, a Village next to Darzo, the sun was almost setting. The road was re-surfaced, which left lots of pebbles and made it difficult to ride swiftly. When we arrived at Sangau, it was already dark. We headed straight to our host, who was the relative of my partner.

Sangau to Phawngpui

The next morning i.e., Dec. 6, 2012, we continued our journey, driving towards Farpak, the last point where a vehicle could reach. Since my partner had a permission from the CWW, to conduct his research at Phawngpui, we very oftenly had a field work there, hence, the workers were also familiar with us.

At the entrance of the core area of the Phawngpui National Park

Ascending ~ 500m with a Royal bobber was one hell of an experience. It was a fair weather road. That was not the hurdle, though. But the steepness was. From Thaltlang to Farpak, it was not more than 6 Km. Had we measure the slope percentage, it would definitely be 100% and above.

Finally, we arrived at the Farpak, we parked our bobber at the Old Rest House. We filled our gallon and bottles with water, gearing up for another 7Km uphill trek. The elevation at Farpak was ~1900m and our destination, the peak, was 2157m msl. Since it was not our first time, we were well aware of the patrolling path.

A narrow path, midway across Farpak to Phawngpui peak

Since there was no water-bodies near the peak, we had to carry maximum amount of water, and that put on another weight. On the way to the peak, sometimes, you have to crawl beneath the clumps of Schizostachyum fuchsianum. And sometimes, through the tall and thick grasses.

It took us 3½ hrs to reach the peak. Setting up the tent and igniting a fire were the first priorities. After which, we started our work.

A view from the peak: Siachangkawn Village in the mid-bottom; Lungtian Village at the rigth extreme corner. Siaha town flooded by a mist.

I was accompanying my Phenologist friend. The main purpose of the trip was phenology. My comrade, B-a, how we call him, was pursuing his doctoral research on the phenological aspects of Rhodondendron vernacularly termed as “Chhawkhlei” in Mizo. Phawngpui National Park (PNP) is one of the few places where Rhododendron grows in the wild, here in Mizoram. Apart from PNP, it is also found at Tualcheng, Champhai, Ţan tlang, Lurh tlang, Farkawn and East Khankawn. The genus is confined in the Eastern highlands of the state.

Manipulating the polination of a Rhododendron vaechiatinum

Even though I often accompanied him on his field work, I have very limited knowldege of phenological sciences. What we usually did, as I could recollect, was covering the buds of a Rhododendron with a net, so as to manipulate its pollination; In a pixelated terminology, they might termed it hacking the pollination 😁. Most of the time, I was his photographer and his personal body guard. He was better in cooking, hence he cooked, while I’m better in chopping and splitting fuel woods, which I did. Like wise, we assisted each other.

There were at least three different species of Rhodendron at PNP. As far as my understanding is concerned, these species grows in a very specific ecosystem. Survival rate and regeneration rate is also very low. Dormancy also is long. Wildfires often threatened its survival.

PNP

Phawngpui National Park (PNP) is one of the 10 protected areas, and one of the two National Parks of Mizoram, it covers an area of 50 Km². Entry is permitted after paying necessary fees. However, collection of specimen, cutting of plants, killing, snaring and catching of wild animals are strictly prohibited. For research purpose, permission has to be acquired from EF&CC, GoM. Entering the Park without a guide is also prohibited.

Fading glory … A dry Saiburh flower…one of the most common herb at Farpak.

Homeward bound

We were done! We’re homeward bound. Trekking downhill and riding downhill were equally uncomfortable. As long as the wheel rotate, it was fine, but there were moments when the wheel could not rotate but slide on the pebbles. After carefully riding downhill, we finally managed to reach Thaltlang. We halt a night at Sangau; the next morning we continue our journey back home.

At Tuipui D, it was the same ol’ story, waiting for the mar boat and two other LMV. But this time, it was an HMV that turned up.

A Royal pose at the Mar boat on our way back.

After an intensive research work for years, the Mizoram University finally awarded him a Doctorate degree. You can reach him here https://www.facebook.com/malsawm.kima.7

…in Translucence

I can see myself only through a mirror. And I know that I would never see myself like other would see me. Being a mirror lover, I let people see the world through a mirror. Prior to which, there’s an array of glasses. An array of conductors and semi-conductors known as sensors, which lies behind the mirror, and senses everything. A gentle press on a button called shutter button let the memory card record what I saw through a mirror. And they call that a Photograph. A mirror aided cameras, with a memory card are what they called Digital Single lens Reflex Camera 😀

Sometimes, like fashion, technology keeps on changing and revolving. Sometimes bulky cameras are the no. 1 fashion, sometimes not. Sometimes, handy cameras are more fashionable. Handy cameras with a flipping mirror is near to impossible…(may be). When size does matter, technology comes to the rescue…Hence a camera technology without a reflex-mirror was developed.

Being a Leica fan for a very long time, but who doesn’t afford, I sold my 7 years old DSLR and some accessories, and invested it for a camera which look alike Leica the most (they might not like it, though)… a Fujifilm mirrorless aka an SLT camera. Customizing all the knobs and buttons to make it more ergonomical (like my DSLRs), I started to see the world through a translucent glass. My vision is now in translucence.

Here are some few pictures through my translucent vision. Of course, this is not a review article of a camera…just about pictures made by using fujifilm X-E3. If you wanted to read about the reviews and comments of this camera, just google it! 😀

A view from my veranda…just a random shot

On the bank of Chite Lui, SIPMIU is constructing a sewage treatment plant. The course of the Chite lui has gradually changed, as compared to our childhood days

One of the reason why I opted for a smaller camera is street photography. Just a few minute across the Bara Bazar…

A school boy waiting for his nanny was enjoying the sidewalk near Dawrpui Church

Two Wheeler taxis are a new addition to Aizawl Traffic, cheaper rates, faster mode…

A roadside fastfood stall…tea and snacks are available and so is “kuhva hring”

Non-locals freely work here in Aizawl, provided they have a statutory permit. If they have that permit, then, there’s no discrimination from the locals.

It would be every child’s dream to have a house full of toys…a toy seller unintentionally often make the children cry…hehe

As the working hour is over, offices are closed. This young boy while waiting for his father, who was a caretaker of this office sat and play with his father’s phone.

Night life in Aizawl is peaceful…there are few food vendors selling tandoori chicken. But most of the restaurants and shops are closed in the evening.

I saw these youths playing mobile games in front of a closed shop, I parked my bike, and clicked…they didn’t knew that they were photographed! 😀

At the end of the day, I remember Gabriel Fuchs words “the more people are interested in photography, it is the manufacturer who gained the most, not the user…”

[All pictures shot with fujifilm X-E3 + fujinon 23mm f/2 lens]

I’m on Instagram too → https://www.instagram.com/thevidcvan/

of Mud and Clay

Pedology is a part of an ecological science that deals with the study of soil. In which, determination of soil texture is an important part. Silt, Clay and loam are the three important particles of soil texture. Their concentration in the soil determines the texture and physical quality of a soil. These are some few lines that I could remember from my formal education about clay and other forms of soils.

There can be no other grand welcome for a bambusapiens than a clump of Bambusa spp. at the backyard of the studio

For me, soil is a growth medium. Soil is an anchor. But to many, soil is not just a growth medium nor just an anchor. It is a medium for their expressions.

Everyone knows about pottery. Normally we get our Porcelain and ceramic products from the Mandarin source. And of course, they are normally meant for domestic uses. Hence, pottery, to me, was more of a functional works, than artistry, until I met this couple in Aug. 4, 2017.

Being an art follower, my artist friends – John and Kimtea, a Kala Bhavana Alumni along with Thara, took me to Goalpara, a village next to Santiniketan. While returning, we went to the studio of this couple. Their studio and their house were a creation, skillfully crafted, and artistically conceptualized. It would be every artists dream to have such a studio!

Biagio Luca from Italy was training at the studio when we first visited in Aug. 4, 2017. (L-R: Luca, Kimtea, Thara, John and Bityut)

I have been studying, teaching and researching on ecology for quite a few years now. I campaigned for ecological conservation among the teenagers. I used to talk about living in harmony with nature. I used to enjoy camping in the wild, among the bushes and the trees. But never ever have been connected with nature as much as I wished to.

A house of mud and clay, the studio of Mr and Mrs Roy

Here at Boner Pukur Danga, Santiniketan, I met two artist, whom mother nature matched them together perfectly. They draw their inspirations from nature – the trees, the bushes, the grasses and the socio-cultural lifes of the Santhali community. Even though they could easily get their medium through online market, they prefer the materials which nature provided them. They dug the soil, and prepare their medium themselves.

A ceramic studio constructed by using ceramic and producing ceramics

For a 3dimensional art works like ceramics, shapes and forms are the two important elements, in fact the whole concept is influenced by these two elements. Being a nature lover, Bityut and Lipi’s inspirations of forms and figures which they incorporate in their art works are from nature itself.

When asked why they live in such an isolated place, “I love the culture, traditions and the lifestyle of the Santhali community. If I lived in their village, I would distract them, so I choose a place where I could see them, where I could witnessed their simple yet riched lifestyle; a place near by them, without disturbing them” Mr. Bityut Roy replied.

Mr. Bityut Roy established the Studio in 1984.

“I am not a trained potter, but a painter. My interest and sources of inspiration is from the nature. My love for fine art and nature brought me here” said Mrs Lippi Biswas.

Bityut and Lipi tie a knot in 1995. Since then, they have been in this field together. They enjoy what nature had provided them. For them, conservation is a lifestyle.

As you walk into the studio, you can feel the swaying of the trees, the melody of the swirling leaves. It seems like a transect walk in a tropical forest, amidst the fog and the mist, accompanied by a drizzle to turn the mercury down.

You can hear the rippling streams. You can feel the chirping birds that are perching around, the croaking of a toad and the aroma of wild flowers blown by the cool breeze. At one corner, you can hear the rhythm of a Santhali percussion and the melodious tune of the womenfolks. It feels like we are more connected with mother nature.

Mr Jubal, a ceramic artist seriously analyzing the art works

For those of you who love nature and fine art, it is a must to visit the ‘Studio Boner Pukur Danga,’ but you have to be extremely careful not to break those fossils of nature embedded in an art work. And of course, buy from them!

My second visit was on May 30, 2018. This time, I was accompanied by my lovely wife Rebecca and Mr. Jubal, a ceramic artist from Kala Bhavana. My wife was so much drawn into those art pieces that she was reluctant to leave!

Tea and snacks, in a ceramic cups and plate

You can reach them here:

Call: +919679984008 (Lipi Biswas)

via e-resources: marangburu@yahoo.com; studiobonerpukurdanga; studiobonerpukrudanga

My wife, holding the art piece that we purchased, posed with Mrs Lipi

Ayubhowan: A Ceylon Diary

There’s a hymn by Reginald Heber (1783-1826) we used to sing, which read –

“What though the spicy breezes, Blow soft o’er Ceylon’s isle…”

Since then, the name Ceylon has been lingering in my mind. The Lord showed His mercy on me, and giveth me the privileged to experience the spicy breezes that blow across the Indian Ocean, for a week. Like the hymnodist said, it was a beautiful country, which earnestly longed and sacrificed for peace.

Yet again, my camera was my diary, it freezes those moments, that portray Sri Lanka, the nation, that wished me “Ayubhowan” (May you live long).

Deities of the Kohomba

A twin percussionists played the Geta Beraya in a vibrant rhythm. The dancers swirl and swing to the groove of the percussions, and occasionally sang the vannam (a kind of recitation). Most vannam describe the behaviour of animals.

Kandyan dance is believed to originate from the dance performed by the deities of Kohomba in central Sri Lanka.

A group of dancer performing the Kandyan dance

The innaugural procession of the SACYN 2017 was led by these dynamic Kandyan dancers.

Family matter

A sweet smile was their response, as I point my lens towards them, a Sinhalese family. All through the week, I have noticed that the Sinhalese communities are a happy community.

A Sinhalese family – their simple gesture makes me feel at home

One of the major battles the Sri Lankan’s are facing is the battle, with nature, for land. Impact of climate change has been suffered by the country. Submerging of land is one of the major impacts. Land dispute between the Government and the citizens, especially the grassroots is another battle they are fighting. Submerging of land and the 30 years’ war the country had gone through enhanced the dispute.

All these internal conflicts and disputes are a family matters of the country. But climate change…its a matter of the earthlings as a whole!

Life along the Salt Canal

Reclamation and submerging of lands has always been a subject in an Island ecosystem. Several lands are often washed off or submerged by the sea waters. The Muthurajawela wetland in Negambo, Sri Lanka is also among those, often submerged by salt water. A canal was built by the British to drain the salt water in 1802 and named it Hamilton Canal (aka Dutch Canal). At present, it is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the area.

Houses are constructed along the canal, leaving only a narrow footpath, without a railing. It seems the settlers are well adapted to it, and never fell into the canal. On the contrary, I was told that a few moments before I shot this photo, a three-wheeler fell in it, but from the other side of the canal.

Fisherman’s agony
Fishing industry is one of the most blooming industries in the Sri Lankan economy. The government has envisioned a large scale fishing industry.At present, the fishing community comprises of the traditional fishing community with an improvised or modernised oruvas (sailing canoe). These fishermen are the grassroots of the society, continuing the fishing legacy for more than a century.

The Government’s new policy on the fishing industry is not so welcomed by them, as they have a suspicion that they will be overthrown by the corporate. The National Fishery Solidarity Movement (NAFSO) endlessly fights for the rights of the fishing community.

If the policy is empowered, not only the grassroots will suffer, but the method adopted by the fishing industry is detrimental to the environment; increasing the rate of erosion and submerging of coastal low lands. Fighting against both the climate change and the policy agonised the fisherman.

Fading glory

As the government is eyeing to enlarge the fishing industry, the traditional fishing communities, the grassroots of the society, are in despair. To them, fishing is not only a passion, but a life and a legacy.

With the advent of the corporate equipped with hi-tech fishing gears, the fishing legacy of the indigenous community is fading day by day, dwindling year after year.

A wife helped her fisherman-husband in picking the fishes and the crustaceans entangled in the net. Women play an active role in fighting for the rights of the fisherman.

There will be times when the traditional fishing technique will be seen only through art works, when the oruvas is only a museum collection. When those times come, they’ll ponder upon the good old days, their glorious days that fade…

Sanguine

After hearing all the country’s dark side, I met this young boy, who just came back from school. He was neither bothered by the past nor the future, but enjoyed the present. A confident smile was his reaction to the lens being aimed at him.

A Jolly and confident young boy of Negambo city.

He might not understand the struggle that the Lankan’s had gone through. He might not be aware of the bloody war that was fought. The consequences of the war were beyond his perception. But he’s enjoying the moment, he’s the new generation, a generation of peace and tranquility.

Walking the Negambo City

Negambo is a City on the west coast of Sri Lanka, north of the capital, Colombo. It is famous for its lagoon and beach.

A Lottery counter on the roadside had an ample amount of customers.

Street food- Almost all the food items contained at least a few pinched of sea food.

We were relentlessly searching for a street food hawker. We finally managed to find this guy. He might be a Sri Lankan Tamil, and the fruits that he hanged suggested he’s a Hindu.

The internal politics of the country is beyond our knowledge. Many blamed the Government for not providing sufficient humanitarian aid to the civil war refugee. This picture, reminded me of those that still suffered the consequences of the civil war.

On the contrary, this Tamil gentleman gestured the sign of peace. Ironically, the Sri Lankan Civil War was fought between the Tamil separatist and the Sri Lankan Government.

Devotion
As she finished her noon prayer, a believer rejoicingly left the Church. She was sitting and praying at the back pew. She was wearing a hearing aid. I, oftenly, used to think that what the mainstream society called differently-abled are more devoted and consecrated to their faith.

St. Stephen’s Church has a long history. Built in 1877 and consecrated on Jul. 31, 1880, was declared as Archaeological protected monument in 2011; and it belongs to the Anglican Church.

I bid goodbye to Sri Lanka on Oct. 14, 2017.

“Ayubhowan, Sri Lanka”